Should gutter guards go under shingles?
How under-shingle guards are meant to work
Many inexpensive screens and some hood covers are designed with a back flange that slips beneath the bottom row of shingles. The idea is to hold the guard in place without screws and create a smooth path for water. The problem is what happens to the shingles in the process.
What goes wrong
- Broken seals. Each shingle is held down by an adhesive strip that bonds to the course below in warm weather. Prying the edge up to slide in a flange breaks that bond, and unsealed shingles are the first to lift and tear in a strong gust. See wind damage to roofs in Georgia.
- Cracks and popped nails. Lifting shingles on a cool day can crack them or work nails loose.
- A dam in the water path. The guard's back edge sits right where water and debris flow off the roof, and leaves can pile against it.
- Warranty concerns. Shingle manufacturers write installation instructions that do not include tucking accessories under the starter course. Check your shingle maker's warranty before anyone lifts that edge.
Better ways to attach a guard
Look for guards that screw to the gutter's front lip and fasten at the back to the fascia or the face of the drip edge, or that sit inside the gutter beneath the drip edge. The shingles stay untouched and the guard can be removed for cleaning without disturbing the roof. Details on the metal at the roof edge are in drip edge explained.
If you already have them
Check the bottom course for tabs that are lifted, creased or unsealed. A roofer can reseal loose tabs, and when the roof is replaced, plan the guards so they never go under the new shingles. Compare guard styles in gutter sizing, seamless gutters and guards.