How much does fascia cost to install?
Short answer. Installation is usually the larger part of a fascia bill, because the crew must take down the gutters, remove the old board, repair anything rotted behind it, fit and fasten the new board, finish it, and rehang the gutters. Height, corners, painting or wrapping, and hidden rafter tail damage decide whether the labor is modest or substantial.
What the labor covers
- Removing gutters and downspouts along the affected eaves.
- Prying off the old fascia without damaging the soffit or roof edge.
- Inspecting and repairing rafter tails, sub-fascia and the decking edge.
- Cutting new boards, with tight joints and mitered corners.
- Fastening with corrosion-resistant nails or screws.
- Priming and painting, or bending and installing aluminum wrap.
- Rehanging the gutters with the right slope, or installing new ones.
What raises the labor
- Two-story or steep-lot eaves that need tall ladders or staging.
- Many corners, returns and short runs.
- Rot that extends into rafter tails.
- Old gutters that bend coming off and need replacing.
- Lead paint precautions on homes built before 1978.
How contractors price it
Per linear foot, per board, or by the job with a minimum charge. Ask whether gutter removal and rehanging, rafter tail repair, and painting or wrap are included, because those lines are where quotes differ most.
When to do it
Fascia work pairs naturally with a roof replacement or new gutters, since the roof edge and gutters are being handled anyway, and new drip edge protects the new board. See roof anatomy explained and gutter sizing, seamless gutters and guards.