How much does fascia cost?
Short answer. Fascia is priced by the linear foot, and the material you choose sets the baseline: primed pine is the cheapest, cedar costs more, and PVC or composite boards cost more still but will not rot. Aluminum fascia wrap adds cost on top of the board but eliminates painting, so the right choice depends on how long you want to go without maintenance.
Fascia materials compared
- Primed pine or fir. The common, low-cost choice. Needs paint every several years and rots quickly if water gets behind gutters.
- Cedar. Naturally more rot-resistant and stable, at a higher price. Still needs finishing.
- PVC or cellular PVC. Will not rot or absorb water, holds paint well if painted, and is a popular upgrade in Georgia's humidity. Costs more than wood and needs proper fastening for thermal movement.
- Composite or engineered trim. Between wood and PVC on price, better rot resistance than plain wood.
- Aluminum wrap. Thin pre-finished aluminum bent on site to cover a wood board. Adds labor and material, but you stop painting. Water trapped behind poorly fitted wrap can still rot the wood underneath.
Sizes and extras
Most homes use 1 by 6 or 1 by 8 fascia boards. Wider boards and longer lengths cost more. Expect related costs for paint or wrap, and for any soffit, crown or drip edge work done at the same time.
What actually drives the total
The board price is usually a small part of a fascia job. Labor, removing and rehanging gutters, repairing rafter tails, and painting add more. That is why fascia is cheapest to replace when gutters are already coming down, such as during a roof or gutter replacement.
Preventing a repeat
Most fascia rot in Georgia comes from overflowing gutters and missing drip edge. Fix those, or the new fascia will rot too. Read drip edge explained and gutter sizing and seamless gutters. Robust Roofing explains the damage pattern in its soffit and fascia guide.