Do I need to replace drip edge when I replace my roof?
Why reuse rarely makes sense
- Tear-off damages it. Prying off the starter course and old nails bends the flange and the face.
- Nail holes. The old flange is already perforated, and new nails would go into fresh spots in the same narrow strip.
- Wrong lap order. At the eaves, drip edge belongs under the underlayment. Leaving old metal in place while new underlayment goes on can trap it in the wrong layer.
- Profile and color. Older homes often have a small L-shaped edge, or none at all. Current practice favors a profile with a wider roof flange and a kick that throws water clear of the fascia, and new metal can match new gutters or trim.
Homes that never had it
Plenty of Georgia houses were roofed before drip edge became a code requirement, with shingles simply hanging over the fascia. A reroof is the time to add it. On an insurance claim, drip edge is commonly its own line item, and when code requires something the old roof lacked, the policy's ordinance or law coverage may come into play; see code upgrades and ordinance or law coverage.
Between replacements
Look along the eaves after storms. Drip edge that is pulled away from the fascia, bent by a ladder, or rusted through lets water stain the fascia and rot the deck edge. A short section can be replaced on an existing roof, though the eave lap is a compromise until the next reroof. More in drip edge explained and gutters, sizing and guards, since drip edge and gutters work as a pair.