How do you replace drip edge, and when should you?
Short answer. Drip edge is easiest to replace during a roof replacement, when the old metal comes off with the shingles and new edge goes on before the underlayment. On an existing roof, a roofer can break the seal on the first course, pull the old drip edge, slide new metal in and reseal, but the underlayment lap at the eave is hard to restore. Replace it when it is rusted, bent, missing or too short, or whenever the roof is replaced.
Signs your drip edge has failed
- Rust streaks running down the fascia or gutters.
- Peeling paint, soft wood or rot along the fascia and the edge of the decking.
- Water dripping behind the gutter instead of into it.
- Dents or kinks from ladders and falling limbs.
- No drip edge at all on the rakes, which is common on older Georgia homes.
Replacing it during a reroof
This is the right time. The old metal comes off with the shingles, any rotted fascia or deck edge is repaired, new eave drip edge goes onto the bare deck, leak barrier and underlayment lap over it, and the rake metal goes on top of the underlayment. Reusing old drip edge to save a few dollars leaves bent, nail-holed metal under a brand new roof.
Replacing it on an existing roof
- On a mild day, break the sealant on the starter and first course.
- Pull the nails holding the old drip edge and work it out.
- Repair any rotted fascia or deck edge while it is exposed.
- Slide in new drip edge, nail it high where the shingles cover the nails, and lap the joints.
- Renail and hand-seal the lifted shingles.
The weak point is that the underlayment ends up under the new metal at the eave instead of over it. It is an improvement over failed metal, but not the same as a full reroof detail.
For profiles and sizing, read drip edge explained, and for how it works with gutters, gutter sizing and guards.