What does proper drip edge installation look like?
Short answer. On a properly installed drip edge, the metal runs continuously along every eave and rake, sits snug against the fascia, extends past the sheathing so water drips clear of the wood, and laps neatly at joints and corners with no visible gaps. At the eaves the drip leg should send water into the gutter, not behind it.
What to check from the ground
- Continuity. Metal along every eave and up every rake, with no stretches of bare fascia.
- Straight lines. The edge should run straight, not wave or sag between nails.
- Clean corners. Outside corners folded or capped, with no open triangle where water can enter.
- Shingle overhang. Shingles should extend a little past the metal, typically about 1/4 to 3/4 inch, so water drips off the shingle edge.
What to check from a ladder
- Gutter relationship. The drip leg should hang into the gutter or over its back edge, with no gap where water can slip between gutter and fascia.
- Hidden nails. No nail heads on the face of the metal or near the outer edge.
- Laps. Joints overlapped at least 2 inches, with upper pieces lapping over lower ones on the rakes.
- Snug fit. The metal tight against the fascia without bowing outward.
Warning signs of a problem
- Peeling paint or dark stains along the fascia.
- Soft wood at the roof edge or in the soffit.
- Water streaks on siding below the gutters.
- Wasps or birds entering behind the gutter line.
Ask for proof during the job
The part you cannot see after the roof is done is the lap at the eave, where underlayment or leak barrier should go over the drip edge flange. Ask your roofer for a photo of that stage. Background on profiles is in drip edge explained, and on gutter fit in gutter sizing and guards.